By 3pm in the sandy lanes of Kaolack the heat is unforgiving. It is hard to tell if it is more uncomfortable to move or to remain still. Pigs, chickens and sheep search in leisurely fashion through the discarded waste for food scraps. I envy the pigs their cooling mud bath. The street is brightened by the colourful printed fabrics fashioned into original designs, each of which sparks my imagination into creating new outfits I could order next time from the tailor.
Under the shade of an acacia tree sits a small assembly of women on plastic chairs braiding the hair of their daughters, who sit on woven mats at their feet. A few doors up sits a gathering of men around a platter, two shot glasses and a small teapot on a charcoal burner. Throughout the lazy afternoon they ritually pour the sweet green tea between the two shot glasses to create a thick head of mousse, and then pass the tiny glasses among themselves, inviting those nearby to also share in a glass.
Small children roll old tyres with flattened plastic bottles; the older boys dominate the street with a game of football. As I pass each group I am greeted warmly with the usual string of salutations and requests after my health. Motorbike and taxi engines are the only other noise as they bumble along the uneven road.
The Senegalese are deservedly proud of their teranga (hospitality). Those with hearty appetites appreciate the frequent calls to “come and eat” even if it is known that they have already eaten a meal. The communal bowl has no limits, as many people can eat from it as hands can fit around it. Meat or fish are always placed in the centre of the bowl with vegetables and accompaniments dotted around the sides, all lying on a thick bed of rice. Each person eats mindfully of the others, ensuring that everyone gets a fair share of each element.
Dessert may simply be a seasonal fruit, a soft drink or local juice, a welcome moment of escape from the heat. I have seen 15, 60, 200-plus people catered for using just a few gas burners and always with the same absence of fuss and with great tasting food; it never fails to impress and satisfy.
Written by: Lydia Dalitso
Source: The Guardian